FINE But Friendly Dining at Frankie’s
12/09/2024 04:57PM ● By MARIE EDINGER
There’s a new high-end eatery in town: Frankie's , which celebrates all that Vermont has to offer. But rather than being stuffy, the restaurant aims to bridge the gap between a special-occasion restaurant and a place where locals can feel comfortable grabbing a bite to eat. And they’re extremely focused on sourcing their ingredients from local growers and producers.
“Whether it’s beer, cheese, vegetables, or proteins, we feel fortunate to be where we are and have access to those kinds of things. [We’re] supporting the state in a way,” says Frankie’s co-owner Cindi Kozak. “That’s kind of what we went with: our love for Vermont and wanting to keep [the restaurant] going to support those communities.”
The entryway into Frankie's gives you a view of the kitchen.
However, Frankie’s goes a step beyond, changing at least part of its menu every day. “That forces change and keeps you going,” says Jordan Ware, head chef and co-owner. “I don’t mind that kind of stress.”
Cocktails created by bar manager Max Pogacar include the "Proper Martini" and "Something Fun."
Cindi and Jordan met while working at Hen of the Wood. Cindi was the general manager and wine buyer there, and Jordan was the head chef. During their tenure at the restaurant, they built friendships and connections with local farmers and growers. Then, with some encouragement from the Burlington community, the two launched their own venture.
But the challenge of an ever-changing menu demands more than simply knowing a handful of farmers and small local producers. Just because a farm consistently offers the best of one thing doesn’t mean it always has the best of everything. A farm may have the best selection of a particular item at one time, only for another grower to show up with a fantastic crop a couple of months later. But that’s what the owners of Frankie’s want: the very best.
Also, the baseline goal of providing only the best for their customers doesn’t stop with the ingredients; it extends to beverage pairings too. That’s especially true of the wine, which is Cindi’s wheelhouse.
Sous chef Johnny Capitinelli plating salad for Frankie's schnitzel dish.
Like the food, the wine pairings change often. It’s Cindi’s role to find unique ways to explore the seasonality of wines and what to pair them with. For instance, at some times of the year, the restaurant is likely to serve things like baby lettuce, asparagus, and peas. Knowing that, Cindi will look for wines that are lighter and fresher, and, as she puts it, “something that pairs with the food and complements it in such a way that I think it deserves.”
The restaurant thrives on the synergy between Cindi and Jordan. They’ve worked together for a long time, they understand Vermont’s seasonality, and they share a drive, a passion, and a vision for what they want to put out into the world. Cindi says she hopes that the dynamic between the two of them creates something that will entice people to come to experience for themselves.
Inspiration for the menu and wine pairings can come from anywhere. For instance, Jordan’s sous chef, John, went on a trip to Portland and ate a fantastic ravioli dish. Since John and Jordan typically hand-roll pasta three or four times a week anyway, they made ravioli. “It’s kind of become like an old-school thing,” Jordan says. “So, let’s make some ravioli! People identify with it.”
The view of Frankie's kitchen from South Winooski.
The building that now houses Frankie’s has a rich history. For almost twenty-five years, it was Penny Cluse Café, a local favorite for breakfast and lunch. Before that, the building was home to the original Ben & Jerry’s ice cream shop. With the space reborn as Frankie’s, the structure will have a hosted service for every meal of the day.
Cindi says she wanted to preserve that history and reflect it in the ambiance of the new restaurant. “There are a lot of really positive vibes in the mood and walls here,” she says. “I wanted to change the space a bit without abandoning the familiarity and comfort of a legacy building where people have felt so comfortable throughout the years.” She continues, “We focused on keeping it very much still Vermont, but elevating it.”
The restaurant staff is involved in that effort too. The service style is friendly, and the servers are knowledgeable. In fact, Cindi and Jordan sit down with the staff each day to brief them on every ingredient on the menu and walk them through wine and spirit pairings for each dish. And if guests have further questions, Cindi is on hand five nights a week to answer them directly. Jordan says they hope to host wine dinners and chef collaborations in the future, as well as welcoming larger groups in their private dining space.
“We want everybody to feel the love we put into [the food and drink] and leave feeling better,” Cindi says. “We’re intentional with what we’re doing and want [dining here] to be an experience that’s worth [the price] and done correctly. That’s a very important part of our ethos.”
PHOTOS COURTESY OF FRANKIE'S
